Then, you can extend the wiring through the conduit using some THHN of the appropriate gauge (12 for the washer, 10 for the dryer), nut the new wiring to the old wiring in the existing boxes, wire up the new receptacles, and mount them in the new boxes, putting appropriate faceplates on of course. ![]() The drain stack can be elbowed out at its base using two elbows and a straight pipe section before it hits the trap - washer effluent is greywater not blackwater (no chunky bits) so you can use regular elbows instead of long sweep ones.Īs to the electrical - the existing junction boxes will need to have their faceplates replaced with 1/2" conduit KO faceplates and lengths of flexible conduit (probably LFMC) run from the existing boxes to new boxes mounted on a uni-strut or other sort of post (2x lumber will do) securely mounted to the floor. Instead of trying to route the connections over to some other part of the wall, how about elbowing them out to where they're accessible? The hot and cold water lines are simple - the existing shutoffs are replaced with elbows, and the elbows pipe out to straight tap valves (vs the right angle ones currently there). I would think, "Connections are always behind the washer and dryer putting them on a side wall may have unforeseen complications." If I were planning to move the connections, I would think about moving them out and not onto a side wall. There does not appear to be much room between the wall and the side of the washer to place water supply and drains there. Then to push it in you have to tie cords to each line to keep them accessible when you push it in. (Mine is low.) To pull the washer out for service I guess you have to first push the washer in 2 ft or so you can reach the power, the drain, and the water supply lines to disconnect, and then pull the washer out. In your setup to shut off the water supply I guess you get a stool and drape yourself over the washer and reach to the limit, right? What an aggravation! But at least your washer plug is high. But how I envy arrangements with full access to a side of both washer and dryer! And I could pull it out and run it out in the room if necessary to diagnose problems. I can reach over the washer to operate the water cut-off valves (but my wife can't). For 39 years we have been in a house with the washer and dryer in an alcove which prevents side access to the washer and dryer, so I understand how inconvenient your set-up is.
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